Lens Roundup Part 2: Shoot What the Eye Sees, A True 50mm Prime

This is the second installment of a five part series on building an affordable kit of professional grade lenses. Here's a link back to Part 1.

Photographers are often confused when first confronted with a prime lens. What? You can't zoom? My first experience with a prime was when my wife bought me a 50mm f1.8 as a gift on the recommendation of a friend. At first I figured it was one of those gifts where it was the thought that counts. But I couldn't have been more wrong. It is on my camera most of the time.

Prime lenses are fast, compact, lightweight and affordable. The 50mm focal length approximates the field of view of the human eye so you shoot what you see. Becuase of the wide open aperture primes work great in low light or situations where an extremely shallow depth of field is required.

Using a prime will make you a better photographer. You must shoot instead of fiddle. Your eyes and your feet do the work of finding and framing your subject; all the while training yourself to see better, concentrate and involve yourself.

Before proceeding, understand the crop factor you are dealing with on your camera. The size of the camera sensor determines how much of the image coming in through the lens it sees. Think about looking through smaller and smaller rectangles. Each time you capture a little less of what you see. Top end SLRs like the Canon 5D Mark II or Nikon D700 use a sensor size equivalent to 35mm film. The sensor sizes go down from there. Most SLRs are a 1.5 or 1.6 crop factor. So to get the same 50mm field of view on a crop factor camera you need something around 30mm (30 x 1.5 = 45MM). For a full explanation, see Wikipedia. I shoot with a Canon 50D at a 1.5 crop factor and I'm going to assume most of the audience here is using a similar crop factor camera.

The competition consists of four lenses around 30mm. The Sigma 30mm 1.4, Canon 35mm 1.4L, Canon 28mm 1.8 and Tokina 35mm 2.8. For more detailed analysis of individual lenses and their characteristics see the links to reviews below.

At $1400 the Canon 35 1.4L is the best of the bunch but prices itself out of the running.

Between the Canon 28 and Sigma 30, the sigma is faster and cheaper. The Sigma also fares better in reviews evaluating image quality for flare, barrel distortion, chromatic aboration and sharpness. Overall, the Sigma has the edge.

That leaves the Sigma 30 and Tokina 35. The Tokina is an odd duck - slower at 2.8 and lacking in high speed autofocus yet much cheaper ($120 less than the Sigma) and also a macro lens. There are very few reviews of this lens - only one user review on Fred Miranda, none on Amazon and I found only one comprehensive review. On the quest for a professional grade lens the slow autofocus and less than outstanding image quality knock this lens out and leave the Sigma 30 still standing.

Recomendation: Sigma 30mm 1.4. At $440 this lens offers outstanding image quality and an extremely fast 1.4 aperture with fast, accurate autofocus. Exactly the requirements of this category. The only drawback? It cannot be used on a full frame camera.

Best Deal: Tokina 35 2.8. At $320 this lens is a steal. There is some compromise on image quality and autofocus performance but the possibilities of macro are also opened up.

Honorable Mention: The venerable 50mm f/1.8. A "true" 80mm on a crop camera it makes a great portrait lens or to get a little closer in for more intimate street photography. At $100 it should be part of everyone's kit.

This Shot

Sometimes great shots are literally at your feet. I caught this standing over a very cooperative baby using a prime lens.

Canon 50D, 50mm f1.8, f/2.2, ISO 200, 1/80s.

The Useful Bit: 
Get yourself a prime lens and use it. It will make you a better photographer.

Photographing Snow

When you average out the light from most scenes it turns out to be about the same amount of light that would reflect off a neutral gray surface. Cameras assume that and are set to expose for that amount of light.

The problem is snow is white! Because white reflects more light than gray the camera thinks it needs to let less light in to get a proper exposure. As an experiment, let the camera make all the decisions and take a picture of a snowy scene. In all likelyhood you'll end up with gray snow.

To remedy the situation you need to expose about one and a half to two and a half stops more than the camera thinks you should.

In fully automatic modes there isn't much you can do except brighten up the pictures in post processing on a computer. Or if the camera offers exposure lock aim at the side of a house or some trees and lock the exposure then recompose. In semi-auto modes use the exposure compensation feature to force the camera to over expose. For manual, just keep the meter a few stops overexposed.

This shot
This is the rear view mirror of a moped parked outside my office. I managed to get the shutter speed slow enough for the snow to streak but still hold things steady (thanks, stabilized lens!) and the depth of field such that the patterns of the brick were apparent but didn't take attention away from the subject. Another example that photos are everywhere. Canon 50D, Sigma 18-200mm DC OS, f/5, 1/40sec, ISO 200. Here are some other shots from the recent snow in Nashville.

The Useful Bit: 
To shoot snow overexpose by about one and a half to two and a half stops.

Lens Roundup Part 1: Introduction - Building A Professional Quality Set of Lenses on a Budget, or Cheat and Get a SuperZoom

I recently started shooting professionally and bumped up against the limits of some of my gear (insert shameless promotion of professional self here). In particular, lenses and lighting. This led to taking a step back to think about building the right lens portfolio over time. At first I was feverish to buy the Canon "L" series of professional lenses. After careful research and smart shopping I discovered I could buy a complete set of lenses for the same cost as a single "L" lens, about $1500 (see Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM). Granted, there are compromises. If your primary source of income is photography such compromise may not be acceptable. But for myself, I decided the trade offs are worth it. Read on and decide for yourself.

I currently have the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 and Sigma 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS. The Canon 50mm is bright with good image quality but for portraits I need some zoom and the focal length is a little too close for indoor shots and street photography. The Sigma 18-200mm is versatile but not very bright and in some circumstances the image quality could be better (especially wide open at 18mm with f/3.5 or 200mm with f/6.3). Both lenses could benefit from faster auto focus, especially in low light.

The goal is to build a set of four lenses to provide the right tool for the job in the circumstances most photographers will find themselves: a "true" 50mm prime, wide angle, standard zoom and telephoto. Macro, super telephoto, fisheye, tilt shift or other specialized lenses are left out.

I rounded up four or five lenses in each category and set about careful comparison. To select the lenses I set some basic criteria then looked at the lens lineups from Canon, Tamron, Sigma and Tokina. If you shoot with another camera system substitute Canon with the the brand of your choice. And please share your results!

If you are not yet ready to invest in a portfolio of lenses try something like the Sigma 18-200mm. I have used it for over two years and it is a tremendous learning tool. These so called "superzooms" allow access to everything from wide angle to telephoto all in one package and are fantastic for travel. Sigma recently released the even more impressive Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM. This version adds another 50mm on the long end and HSM, their speedy and silent auto focus system. If you aren't ready to spend $1500 for a set of lenses, one of these lenses gets you much of what the whole kit offers for about one third the price.

As for the rest of this series, Part 2 will cover prime lenses, Part 3 the wide angle lineup, Part 4 the standard zooms and part 5 the telephoto lenses. I hope this series will save some of you from having to do all the research and comparison shopping yourself. It was a lot of work!

This Shot

Good equipment is important, but not sufficient. This shot was taken in Brazil with a 2.0 megapixel Canon Powershot A20 and is still one of my favorites.

The Useful Bit: 
Take one step down from the absolute best gear. You'll get comparable results at a more affordable price.